Chillingham Castle: a haunted family adventure on the Northumberland coast

After two housebound staycations that involved more cleaning than relaxation, I’d promised Cyrus a proper Northumberland family day out as soon as lockdown ended. So we headed to the Northumberland coast to explore castles, gardens, and a little local history, starting with Dunstanburgh and then the famously haunted Chillingham Castle.

Finding a castle that sparks a child’s imagination while keeping a parent sane isn’t easy, but Chillingham delivers. From winding staircases and spooky tales to secret gardens and Persian rugs, it’s a family day out full of surprises, and yes, the occasional mud puddle.

Dunstanburgh Castle: a Northumberland family day out for historic ruins

Our first stop en route to Chillingham was Dunstanburgh Castle, a dramatic ruin perched above the sea and a 40-minute drive from Newcastle.

After trudging a mile and a half through what he dramatically called “a lot of sheep poo,” Cyrus stood before the crumbling stonework and declared: “It’s broken.”

To me, the wind-whipped cliffs and endless sky felt like stepping into a Turner painting. To my six-year-old? It was “boring rocks”.

For families looking for a Northumberland family day out, it’s perfect if your kids love coastal walks and historic ruins, but plan snacks and be prepared to carry them if they get tired. Remember it’s a long walk!

Chillingham Castle hides secrets

Next, we ventured to Chillingham, often called one of the most haunted castles in England. It’s tucked away, and reaching it means crossing a little ford. Cyrus was delighted as we splashed through it, while I silently imagined explaining to my husband why his car was floating downstream.

Chillingham isn’t your neat, brochure-ready heritage site. It’s a 12th-century stronghold that became a castle in 1344, still occupied by the same family, the Wakefields, and mercifully untouched by modern polishing. Every winding staircase and dusty corridor feels like it’s hiding a secret.

Sir Humphry Wakefield himself still lives there, and apparently so do a few spirits. Personally, I prefer my ghosts fictional, but there’s something deliciously eerie about walking those stone halls.

Ghosts, grandeur and a lot of dust – exploring Chillingham Castle with kids

The drive up is dramatic, lined with ancient trees and shadows that seem to whisper. You half expect a knight to gallop past or at least a ghostly butler offering tea.

What I love most is that it hasn’t been overly restored. There’s a proud shabbiness to the place, peeling walls, uneven steps, and displays that look as though someone’s eccentric aunt arranged them after too much sherry. It’s the opposite of Disney’s Haunted Mansion, and that’s precisely the charm.

Cyrus was fascinated by the narrow slit windows, convinced he could fire invisible arrows through them, while I tried to look brave enough to peek into the torture chamber. He was less fazed by the dungeon than I was, though he didn’t linger long inside.

For anyone seeking things to do with kids in Northumberland, Chillingham is perfect, spooky stories, history, and beautiful gardens to run off steam in.

The human touch – friendly staff and family-friendly tips

Despite its gothic reputation, Chillingham is one of the friendliest castles we’ve visited. The ticket-office chap was full of warmth and local knowledge, even knocking a few pounds off because part of the castle was closed. In a world of rising prices, small gestures like that mean a lot to families.

Tickets were just £8 for me, and free for Cyrus, which felt like a bargain for several hours of ghost-spotting and make-believe sword fighting.

Unlike other sites post-lockdown, there was no rigid one-way system. You can wander freely, giving curious toddlers that rare sense of independence without worrying about queues or crowds.

Gardens, ghosts and Persian rugs – a magical Northumberland family day out

Once we’d finished exploring the interiors, we went into the gardens where there are a maze of manicured hedges and secret paths that felt made for small children and tired parents. Cyrus raced ahead pretending to be a knight. I trailed behind, pretending not to be out of breath.

Inside, among the curiosities, we found a Persian rug so old and intricate that even my husband (who prides himself on spotting a good one) would have been impressed. There’s also a crystal skull behind bars, Easter Island figurines, and portraits whose eyes follow you with unnerving persistence.

It’s all a bit mad, in the most wonderful British way, a blend of history, humour, and eccentricity that modern attractions often scrub away.

Stay the night – overnight adventures at Chillingham Castle

For braver souls, Chillingham offers overnight stays in its apartments. I’d love to go back one day to see whether the fabled Blue Boy ghost really does drift through the walls. For now, though, a daylight visit suits us just fine.

We left feeling oddly refreshed, despite the cobwebs and the occasional shiver. It’s not picture-perfect, but that’s what makes it real. And in a world obsessed with filters and perfection, I’ll take authenticity every time.

Top tips for visiting Chillingham Castle with kids

• Wear sensible shoes. Paths are uneven and grassy, skip the ballet flats.
• Pack for all seasons. Northumberland weather changes.
• Keep them fueled. Snacks and water are a must for avoiding meltdowns.
• Let them explore. Open layout perfect for little wanderers.
• Bring a buggy. Small legs get tired and big parents get sore backs.
• Feed their imagination. Knights, ghosts, and legends make great conversation.
• Check for events. Look for family-friendly activities before your visit.
• Don’t skip the gardens. Perfect for a picnic or a pre-nap run-around.

⭐ Ratings

Dunstanburgh Castle: ⭐⭐⭐☆ (3/5)
Chillingham Castle: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ (4/5)

If Dunstanburgh is a postcard, Chillingham Castle with kids is a diary entry full of character, mystery, and the odd muddy bootprint. My son didn’t find a fairytale castle that day, but he found something better: a story he’ll never forget.