A slice of Greek sunshine, with a toddler in tow

There comes a point in every family holiday when you realise that your idea of relaxation and your son’s are two different things. Mine involves a sun lounger, a fairly decent book and a Nescafe frappe. Cyrus, meanwhile, likes a swimming pool and unlimited ice cream.

When H and I decided to take our little Persian prince to Corfu, I had two things in mind. The first was to enjoy a proper family holiday without spending half of it worrying about mealtimes, entertainment and whether we’d packed enough toys for him. The second was to see something of Greece beyond the hotel buffet. I’ve never been good at sitting still for a whole week, however appealing it might sound when I’m at home staring at a pile of washing.

Travel has always been part of our lives. H and I love exploring places where history, culture and everyday life come together, although our adventures have changed a lot since becoming parents. Gone are the days of walking around for hours without a plan. These days, every expedition involves snacks, sun cream and a calculation of how far Cyrus can reasonably walk before demanding to be carried.

Corfu, as it turned out, was rather good at accommodating us all. With its beautiful coastline, fascinating history and relaxed atmosphere, the island offered enough to satisfy our curiosity while keeping Cyrus thoroughly entertained.

Can you really relax on holiday with a toddler?

Our week in Corfu involved sunshine, Greek history, swimming pools and one very excited little boy. Relaxation, it turned out, came in unexpected places.

Seven days of sunshine and the luxury of doing very little

We arrived to a week of glorious sunshine, the sort that makes you forget about the washing pile waiting at home and wonder why British summers can’t be like this. For once, there were no deadlines, no rushing around and no household chores demanding attention. Our biggest decisions involved choosing between the beach and the pool, followed by the question of what to eat for lunch.

I even managed to read a book. An actual book, with pages that didn’t feature farm animals or need me to make the appropriate noises. My holiday companion was How to Travel With Kids by Natasha Sandhir and AJ Ratani, a practical guide covering everything from assembling a sensible medicine bag to the delicate business of potty training abroad.

Before becoming a mum, I would have dismissed such reading as unnecessary preparation. Now, I think it quite sensible. Nothing concentrates the mind quite like the possibility of a toddler having an unfortunate incident in a swimming pool. The book offered plenty of useful advice, although I still maintain that no amount of preparation can account for every surprise a small child might spring on you.

Aeolos Beach Resort: all-inclusive bliss with a few hills thrown in

We booked our holiday through Jet2 and stayed at the Aeolos Beach Resort, an all-inclusive hotel in Perama overlooking the Ionian Sea. I’ll admit that all-inclusive holidays once struck me as unadventurous. The idea of spending a week within the boundaries of a resort seemed a little too organised for my liking. Motherhood, however, has a wonderful way of changing your priorities, when the alternative involves searching for a restaurant with a hungry toddler in tow.

The hotel was a lovely surprise. Set among gardens on a hillside, it offered beautiful views, plenty of space and enough activities to keep Cyrus busy while H and I enjoyed the occasional moment of peace. The resort combined family entertainment with opportunities to relax, including spa facilities, sports and evening shows. It meant we could enjoy a little of everything without having to organise every minute ourselves.

There was, however, one detail worth mentioning. The resort is built on a slope, and getting around involves a fair amount of walking uphill. Fine if you’re feeling energetic, less appealing when you’re pushing a buggy in the midday heat. Thankfully, the hotel provided a complimentary buggy service, which saved our legs on more than one occasion. I enjoy a good workout, but even I draw the line at treating every journey back to our room like a hill-climbing challenge.

The buffet that won over our little food critic

Food can make or break a family holiday, especially when travelling with a toddler whose culinary preferences appear to change by the hour. Fortunately, the Aeolos had plenty to offer. Alongside familiar favourites such as pasta and pizza, there were Greek dishes, salads and themed buffet evenings. It meant H and I could enjoy trying different foods without worrying about whether Cyrus would find something he liked.

And then there was the ice cream. Unlimited ice cream, accompanied by candy floss and popcorn. Cyrus was delighted, and I suspect he considered the holiday a triumph before we’d even unpacked our suitcases. Naturally, I made the occasional attempt to encourage something resembling a balanced diet, although I wasn’t about to spend our holiday arguing over every scoop of vanilla.

For H and me, the pleasure was simple. We could sit down, eat together and enjoy our meal without preparing anything or facing a mountain of washing-up afterwards. As a working mum, that’s a holiday in itself. It’s nice to just finish dinner and walk away from the table knowing somebody else will deal with the plates and the mess.

Entertainment, evenings and a little breathing space

The hotel’s entertainment team deserves a special mention. Their enthusiasm seemed endless, whether they were organising activities during the day or putting on shows in the evening. Cyrus loved the excitement, and we enjoyed watching him enjoy everything going on around him.

We’d chosen accommodation away from the main hotel building, which turned out to be one of our better decisions. It meant we could enjoy the entertainment when we wanted to, then retreat somewhere quieter when bedtime approached. After a day of swimming, exploring and negotiating over the quantity of ice cream Cyrus could eat in a day, a peaceful evening was very welcome.

The hotel’s all-inclusive arrangements also made life easier. Having meals, snacks and refreshments readily available meant we weren’t constantly thinking about where to eat next. Our stay included some welcome extras, although I’d recommend checking the latest package details rather than assuming every booking includes the same benefits.

Sitting outside your room on a warm Greek evening, listening to the distant sounds of holidaymakers enjoying themselves while your child finally sleeps is lovely. It might not be the carefree holiday of our younger years, but I found myself appreciating those quieter moments just as much.

Achilleion Palace: history, mythology and one very long uphill walk

Of course, we couldn’t spend the whole week lounging around the hotel. H and I have always enjoyed exploring, and Corfu has far too much history to ignore. One morning, we decided to walk approximately 2.5 kilometres uphill towards Achilleion Palace, the former summer residence of Empress Elisabeth of Austria, better known as Sisi.

Built in the 19th century, the palace is a grand tribute to Greek mythology, particularly Achilles, the legendary hero of the Trojan War. With its classical architecture, statues and gardens, it feels worlds away from the swimming pools and sun loungers below. I was particularly interested in the history behind the building, although I soon discovered that admiring imperial architecture is a lot easier when you’re not walking uphill in the heat.

We set off armed with water, snacks, sun cream and the optimism of two adults who had temporarily forgotten they were travelling with a toddler. The scenery was beautiful, and the prospect of exploring somewhere steeped in history kept us going. Cyrus, however, was less interested in the cultural significance of our destination than in the question of when we might stop for something to eat.

Eventually, we reached the top and rewarded ourselves with cold drinks at a nearby café. The views were magnificent, stretching across the surrounding landscape towards the sea. It was one of those moments when the effort suddenly seemed worthwhile, although I suspect H might have disagreed when it came to the return journey.

By then, Cyrus had decided he’d done quite enough walking, thank you very much, and H ended up carrying him. I offered moral support, which I’m sure was greatly appreciated. If you’re planning a similar outing with young children, I’d recommend taking a suitable buggy or arranging transport rather than relying on little legs to manage the entire journey.

Corfu Old Town: Venetian charm and a proper Greek coffee

If the hotel was our place to relax, Corfu Old Town was where I fell properly in love with the island. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007, the old town is a wonderful mixture of Venetian architecture, narrow streets, pastel-coloured buildings and little squares filled with cafés. It’s the sort of place where you can wander without a specific destination and still feel you’ve discovered something.

We took the bus from outside our hotel, with the journey lasting around half an hour. It was an easy way to explore without hiring a car or negotiating unfamiliar roads. Once there, we walked through the alleyways, stopping to admire shop windows, old buildings and the small details that make a place feel different from home.

The town has a fascinating history, shaped by centuries of Venetian influence alongside later French and British rule. You can see those influences in the architecture. It wasn’t simply somewhere to admire old buildings though, it was a place to stop for a drink and enjoy watching the world go by.

Naturally, we stopped for iced coffee. I’m not sure I could call it a proper holiday without at least one leisurely coffee in a picturesque square. Cyrus came along for the adventure, although I suspect he was less interested in the architectural details than I was.

We left promising ourselves that we’d return one day and spend longer exploring. There was so much more to see, and I would happily have spent another afternoon wandering through the streets, discovering little shops and stopping whenever somewhere caught my eye.

Our boat trip to Paxos came with an unexpected surprise

One of the highlights of our holiday was a boat excursion to Paxos, a small island south of Corfu known for its beautiful coastline and strikingly blue water. For Cyrus, this was really exciting because it was his first proper boat trip. He was fascinated by the experience, and his excitement was infectious.

Ordinary things suddenly become extraordinary, and you find yourself paying attention to details you might otherwise overlook. We spent much of the journey enjoying the views across the sea, with Cyrus taking in the unfamiliar surroundings. Then we spotted dolphins.

For a few moments, all attention turned towards the water as they appeared alongside the boat. Cyrus was beside himself with excitement, and I must admit I was too. It was one of those unexpected holiday moments that stays with you long after the suntan has faded, not least because no amount of planning could have guaranteed it.

The excursion was a really long day, though, especially for a small child. We packed snacks, drinks and sun hats, and I was glad we’d thought ahead. If you’re thinking about a similar trip, I’d recommend checking the journey time and onboard facilities before booking. We also found it useful to have cash for refreshments. By the time we returned to the hotel, we were exhausted, but in that satisfying way that comes from having spent the day doing something memorable.

The unexpected pleasure of doing nothing

For all our adventures, some of my favourite moments in Corfu were the quiet ones. Watching Cyrus splash about in the pool, sitting with H over dinner as the sun began to disappear, or wandering through the hotel gardens in the evening looking for frogs and lizards with a little boy who found them infinitely more interesting than anything we’d seen in a palace.

It reminded me that family holidays don’t have to be filled with elaborate excursions to be worthwhile. Before becoming a mum at 40, I associated travel with freedom. I loved setting off somewhere new, exploring at my own pace and deciding what to do as the day unfolded. Travelling with a child is different, of course. There are routines, compromises and occasional negotiations over whether another ice cream is really necessary.

But there’s also the pleasure of seeing things through someone else’s eyes. Cyrus didn’t care whether our hotel had won awards or whether a building was centuries old. He cared about the dolphins, the swimming pool, the animals hiding in the gardens and having both his parents around all day.

That’s what made the holiday so special. For one week, we weren’t rushing between work, household responsibilities and everything else that seems to fill family life. We were together, enjoying the sunshine and discovering a new place at our own rather unpredictable pace.

Our honest verdict on a family holiday to Corfu

Not every part of the holiday was perfect. The hills were tiring, the boat excursion was long, and travelling with a toddler still took a lot of preparation. But Corfu gave us a lovely balance of relaxation, history and family adventure, with enough variety to keep everyone happy.

My top tips for visiting Corfu with a toddler

If you’re considering Corfu for your next family holiday, I’d recommend thinking carefully about where you stay and how much exploring you realistically want to do. A hotel with plenty of activities, flexible dining and quieter accommodation can make an enormous difference when travelling with young children. It’s also worth checking whether the resort is built on a hillside, particularly if you’re bringing a pushchair.

I’d encourage families to venture beyond the hotel, even if it’s only for a few hours. Corfu Old Town is well worth visiting, and the local bus made our outing straightforward. For longer excursions, particularly boat trips, pack more snacks and water than you think you’ll need, take sun hats and keep some cash handy for refreshments.

The all-inclusive arrangement worked particularly well for us because it removed the pressure of organising every meal. Cyrus enjoyed the freedom to choose from the buffet, while H and I could sample different dishes without worrying about whether we’d find something suitable for him. Check what’s included before booking, though, as packages and facilities can change.

Most importantly, don’t feel obliged to fill every day with activities. Some of our happiest moments involved nothing more elaborate than exploring the hotel gardens, watching the sunset or letting Cyrus enjoy another afternoon in the pool. Children don’t necessarily need a packed itinerary to have a wonderful holiday, and neither do their parents.

Would we return to Corfu?

Without hesitation. I went to Corfu hoping for sunshine, a little relaxation and enough entertainment to keep Cyrus happy. I came home with memories of dolphins, Venetian streets, beautiful sea views and a husband who’d done rather more toddler-carrying than he’d anticipated.

It wasn’t the sort of holiday we’d have taken before becoming parents, but that didn’t make it any less enjoyable. In fact, travelling with Cyrus gave us a different appreciation of the island. We slowed down when we might once have hurried and found ourselves enjoying the simple pleasure of spending time together.

There’s a photograph of H and Cyrus from that trip which I particularly love. Nothing elaborate, just the two of them enjoying being away together. Looking at it now, I’m reminded that children won’t necessarily remember the hotel buffet or how much we paid for the holiday. They might, however, remember the feeling of having their parents’ undivided attention.

Although knowing Cyrus, I suspect the unlimited ice cream will remain a strong contender.

Would I book another holiday with Jet2? Based on our experience, absolutely. Corfu gave us the family holiday we’d hoped for, with a few unexpected adventures thrown in for good measure.

And it left me wondering whether the best family holidays are really about the places we visit, or simply the time we finally make for one another.