We took our toddler to Zeera in South Shields, but was it worth the gamble?

There was a time when going out for an Indian meal meant putting on something nice, ordering a glass of wine and spending a couple of hours enjoying food that somebody else had cooked. Then I became a new mum at 40, and the definition of a successful evening out changed dramatically. These days, eating in a restaurant with a toddler takes optimism, accompanied by a spare packet of wipes.

Most evenings, I’m perfectly happy with a takeaway knowing that nobody will judge us if Cyrus decides to throw his dinner across the room. But H and I were ready for a change, so we headed to Zeera Indian Restaurant in South Shields to see whether we could manage a proper family meal without regretting the decision. Zeera had an impressive reputation, having collected awards and plenty of praise for its Indian cuisine. That was encouraging, although I was rather more interested in whether the staff could cope with a toddler.

With Cyrus at the table, a warm welcome mattered almost as much as the food.

We were greeted by managing director Shah Choudhury, who welcomed us into the restaurant and showed us to our table. When you’re arriving with a toddler, a friendly welcome makes a huge difference. The restaurant itself was spacious, with a stylish interior that felt grown-up without being intimidating. There was enough room to settle ourselves without feeling that Cyrus and his belongings were taking over the dining room.

Unlike some family restaurants, Zeera didn’t produce a collection of crayons, colouring sheets or plastic toys. Ordinarily, that might have concerned me, but Cyrus was more interested in what the waiters were bringing to the table. Within minutes, we had poppadoms, mango chutney, mixed pickles and a starter-sized portion of chicken tikka in front of us. Our little food critic wasted no time investigating, and the mango chutney was a success, earning an enthusiastic declaration of “tasty” from Cyrus.

Here was a toddler who could be a bit suspicious of food at home, happily tucking into Indian starters in a restaurant.

One of the pleasures of Zeera is that it doesn’t feel like a restaurant designed exclusively for families. The surroundings are smart enough for a date night, yet relaxed enough to accommodate parents who arrive with a small child and half the contents of their house. H decided to make the most of the wine list and ordered a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Colle Cavalieri, Cantina Tollo 2016, following a recommendation from the staff.

I was driving, so my evening’s indulgence came in the form of a Diet Coke. Not quite the same experience, admittedly, but I was determined to enjoy my dinner without having to worry about the journey home. And, for once, we were actually able to sit and have a conversation while somebody else took care of the cooking. Anyone who has spent the better part of an evening trying to persuade a toddler to eat something will appreciate what a rare pleasure that can be.

I have a weakness for garlic mushrooms when they’re served on puri, so my choice of starter was fairly predictable. Zeera’s version didn’t disappoint. The mushrooms were full of garlicky flavour, while the puri provided the perfect excuse to mop up every last bit. It was a generous serving, too, although I had no intention of leaving anything behind.

H, meanwhile, went for the Neembu Chingri, a dish of super king prawns served in a tangy sauce with a generous kick of chilli. It was a much bolder choice than mine, although I suspect that was precisely the attraction. The prawns were beautifully cooked, and the sauce delivered plenty of heat without overwhelming the other flavours. H was suitably impressed, which is no small achievement when it comes to someone who knows exactly how he likes his food. Both starters were excellent, and by the time our plates were cleared, I was already looking forward to the main course.

For his main course, H ordered Adraki Dhaniya Lamb, served with pilau rice and a plain naan. The dish featured cubes of slow-cooked lamb with pickled ginger, green chillies, roasted coriander seeds and fresh coriander. The lamb was wonderfully tender, with the ginger and spices giving the sauce plenty of character. It was the sort of dish that rewards you for taking your time, although H didn’t slow down.

I chose Chicken Karahi, one of my favourite Indian dishes, with mushroom pilau rice and a Peshwari naan. The chicken came in a richly flavoured sauce with garlic, ginger and coriander, and there was enough food to satisfy my appetite. The Peshwari naan was soft, generous and slightly sweet, just as I like it. Looking at the amount of food on our table, I realised we’d probably been ambitious with our order. One naan between us might have been perfectly sufficient, but ordering sensibly has never been my strongest quality when I’m hungry.

The portions were generous, and neither of us had any complaints about the food. In fact, the biggest challenge was finding enough room to do it justice. There is something satisfying about a restaurant that doesn’t leave you wondering whether you’ll need to raid the fridge when you get home.

Of course, the real test of a family restaurant isn’t whether the food is good. It’s how the staff respond when a small child decides that the evening should revolve entirely around him. Our waiter, Rafael, and the rest of the team were attentive throughout the meal, without hovering over us or making us feel uncomfortable.

When Cyrus ran out of poppadoms, more appeared. When his cranberry juice needed topping up, somebody was happy to help. Nobody seemed remotely troubled by the fact that our youngest diner was enjoying himself enthusiastically. At one point, Cyrus discovered my napkin ring and decided it was considerably more interesting than anything else on the table. I watched him playing with it, waiting for the inevitable moment when I’d have to intervene, but nobody else appeared to notice.

And that, for me, was one of the nicest things about the evening. We weren’t made to feel like parents who had brought a toddler into a restaurant where he didn’t belong. We were a family having dinner. It sounds like such a basic expectation, but anyone who has eaten out with a young child will understand why it matters. You can spend so much time worrying about disturbing other diners that you forget you’re supposed to be enjoying yourself.

Zeera doesn’t rely on the usual children’s entertainment to make families feel welcome. Instead, it gets the important things right. The seating is comfortable, the dining room feels spacious, and the staff are patient with younger guests. The generous portions also make it easy for parents to share dishes or offer children small tastes of different foods.

Cyrus was perfectly happy trying chicken tikka, poppadoms and mango chutney, which made the whole experience considerably easier than I’d anticipated. Naturally, I’d still recommend bringing a small toy to keep a toddler occupied between courses. Even the most enthusiastic little foodie can lose interest when the adults insist on lingering over their dinner, and I wouldn’t want to test the patience of an entire restaurant just because I fancied another ten minutes over my naan.

Our bill came to £69.70, which I thought was reasonable considering the amount of food we’d ordered, the drinks and the standard of service. We’d enjoyed two excellent starters, generous main courses and an evening that felt really quite civilised given that we’d brought a toddler along.

There are cheaper ways to feed a family, but sometimes it’s worth paying a little more to enjoy a meal that doesn’t involve cooking, or negotiating with a small child over the contents of his plate. And I also liked being able to sit down and enjoy my Chicken Karahi while it was still hot. As any parent of a toddler knows, hot food can become something of a luxury.

If you’re thinking of visiting Zeera with a baby or toddler, I’d suggest booking an earlier table before the restaurant gets too busy. It’s also worth asking about seating arrangements when you reserve, especially if you need space for a pushchair or high chair. We found the restaurant spacious and comfortable, but a little forward planning never hurts.

I’d also recommend bringing a small toy, wipes and whatever else keeps your little one occupied. Zeera didn’t provide colouring books during our visit, although Cyrus was more than happy to entertain himself with the food and my napkin ring. And don’t be afraid to let children explore different flavours, provided the dishes are suitable for their age and dietary needs. Cyrus surprised us with how much he enjoyed tasting the starters, and it was lovely to see him joining in rather than being handed an entirely separate meal.

Absolutely. Zeera managed something that isn’t always easy: it gave H and me the feeling that we’d enjoyed a proper restaurant meal without making us worry about whether Cyrus was welcome. The food was full of flavour, the portions were generous, and the service was excellent. Shah, Rafael and the team made us feel comfortable from the moment we arrived.

What impressed me most wasn’t any grand gesture or special treatment. It was the fact that the staff treated dining with a toddler as something perfectly normal. Nobody raised an eyebrow when Cyrus needed more poppadoms, and nobody made us feel that we should hurry through our meal because we had a young child with us.

We left full, and surprised by how smoothly the evening had gone. Cyrus had discovered a new appreciation for mango chutney, H had enjoyed his lamb and wine, and I’d managed to finish a restaurant meal without having to apologise to anyone. For a family night out, I’d call that a success.

Eating out with young children can be an experience, but so much depends on the welcome you receive. A restaurant doesn’t need a soft-play area or a menu covered in cartoon characters to make families feel comfortable. Sometimes, a patient waiter and a few extra poppadoms are more than enough.

Have you ever taken a toddler out for dinner and been pleasantly surprised by how well it went? Or do you have a restaurant horror story that still makes you shudder? I’d love to hear your recommendations for genuinely family-friendly restaurants around Newcastle and South Shields.

Occasional stories, experiments, discoveries and questions from Saffron & Cyrus.

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Editor’s note: This review reflects our family’s experience at Zeera Indian Restaurant in South Shields at the time of our visit. The £69.70 bill, menu dishes and wine selection are historical details rather than current prices or availability. Please check directly with the restaurant before visiting.