Edinburgh at Christmas: our family trip, from hotel to hot chocolate
I used to take the train from Newcastle with my mum. On our December 2024 visit, H and Cyrus joined me for Camera Obscura, Lebanese food and a Christmas market that tested my patience with slow walkers.
When I was little, my mum and I would take the train from Newcastle to Edinburgh. She wore her wool coat and I shivered with excitement as the train rattled along and the windows steamed up. Just when I was starting to lose interest, the castle would appear. That was when Christmas felt official.
Those trips smelled faintly of mince pies and train-station coffee. When H and I got together, we carried on going, and now Cyrus comes too. In December 2024, we swapped the train for the car and drove via Jedburgh. The journey took us about three hours, with a caffeine stop and a family singalong, although H refused to attempt Mariah Carey’s high note.
Hampton by Hilton and a useful lunch stop
Our room at Hampton by Hilton Edinburgh West End cost £100 a night, plus £16 for parking. These were our December 2024 costs, not a quote for a future stay. The hotel was clean and warm, although arriving at 1pm meant waiting for our room. Cyrus dealt with this by lying across the lobby sofa like a Victorian poet.
The hotel currently lists check-in at 3pm, so a room at lunchtime is something to ask about, not count on. On our 2024 visit, lunch at Sofia’s Lounge, the Lebanese restaurant at the hotel, gave us something useful to do while we waited. Cyrus tucked into kafta meshwi, minced lamb kebabs, as though he’d never been fed before, while H and I had grilled halloumi burgers and sweet potato fries.
It was the sort of unfussy meal that helps when you’re travelling with a child. Our family meal at Zeera in South Shields offers another option closer to home if you’re looking for places to eat together.
Camera Obscura, with an hour off Roblox
Once we could get into our Queen Room, we found Cyrus’ sofa bed already made up, dropped our bags and headed to Camera Obscura and World of Illusions. We spent about £64 for the three of us in 2024. Check the attraction’s ticket page for current prices and availability.
From the rooftop, we could see Edinburgh Castle and the lights in Princes Street Gardens below. Inside, Cyrus loved the mirror maze, the shrinking room and the spinning tunnel. H enjoyed explaining the science, and I enjoyed a good hour in which nobody mentioned Roblox or Fortnite.
There was enough to explore without us having to manufacture enthusiasm. It reminded me why we also enjoy places such as Beamish Museum in County Durham, where a family outing gives everyone something to investigate.
Hot chocolate, crowds and ketchup up my sleeve
The wooden chalets at Edinburgh Christmas Market were lit with fairy lights, and the place was heaving. I muttered about slow walkers and blamed perimenopause for my lack of patience. The smell of cinnamon and roasting chestnuts helped, as did the mulled wine.
Cyrus pointed at the stalls and clutched his hot chocolate while we worked our way through bratwurst, sticky waffles and churros. There was sugar everywhere, followed by the sort of hot-dog eating that leaves your gloves half on and ketchup up your sleeve.
Dates and costs for your own trip
Our trip took place in December 2024. For the 2026 season, East Princes Street Gardens is scheduled to open from 14 November 2026 to 3 January 2027, with Christmas Day closed. Check the official Edinburgh’s Christmas visitor information for opening hours and changes.
- Book Camera Obscura ahead. The attraction says it regularly sells out during holidays and weekends.
- Check hotel arrival times and parking arrangements before setting off. An early arrival doesn’t guarantee an early room.
- Wear layers for the rooftop and allow for food and any rides when planning your market budget.
A family tradition worth keeping
The hotel gave us a comfortable base, Camera Obscura kept all three of us interested, and the market supplied enough food to make eating with gloves on seem sensible. The crowds were the drawback. Even so, I still love taking Cyrus to the city my mum took me to, and watching him find his own favourite bits.
Is there a Christmas trip you took as a child that you’ve carried on with your own family?
More of our family travels
For a different Scottish break, our family swaps city streets for a woodland cabin.
A North East day out for children who like exploring, with our experience and practical information.
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