Little legs, big hills and a giant lady in Northumberland

Cyrus had turned three. Three! I was still wondering where the time had gone, although he seemed quite comfortable with his new status as a little boy who knew his own mind. He’d developed firm opinions about everything from breakfast to our weekend plans, and an ordinary trip to the park wasn’t enough to celebrate his big day. He wanted somewhere to explore, preferably with hills, wildlife and the possibility of seeing a digger. Fortunately, Northumberlandia offered all three.

I’ve always thought the Lady of the North was a fantastic place. After all, it’s not every day you get to walk across an enormous reclining woman made from 1.5 million tonnes of clay, rock and soil. At around 100 feet high and a quarter of a mile long, she’s an impressive piece of landscape art, although you don’t fully appreciate her shape until you see an aerial photograph. On the ground, you’re walking across grassy slopes and winding paths, which, as far as Cyrus was concerned, made it an excellent place for an adventure.

Northumberlandia sits within 46 acres of parkland near Cramlington, with around four miles of footpaths taking visitors through woodland and across the sculpture itself. Some routes are relatively gentle, while others involve a bit more effort. I like that you can choose how much walking you want to do. There’s no prescribed route, no pressure to see everything and, best of all, no admission charge.

Hills, binoculars, butterflies and, ideally, a digger or two.

It was July, the sun was shining and we had one of those summer afternoons when staying indoors seemed a shame. I’d packed our rucksack with snacks, water, suncream and the usual assortment of things you take out with a toddler, most of which you hope you won’t need. Cyrus had his little binoculars and was ready to go. He was pleased with them, although he hadn’t quite mastered looking through the correct end.

At three, he approached every outing as though he’d been appointed to investigate the surrounding area. He noticed things I would walk straight past and was quite prepared to stop for several minutes to examine a leaf, a stone or an insect. It made getting anywhere a lengthy process, but I’d learnt there was little point in rushing him. He was often more interested in what he discovered along the way than where we were supposed to be going.

Northumberlandia suited him perfectly. He could walk ahead on the paths, stop to look at butterflies and point out birds whenever he spotted one. Every so often, he’d turn around to make sure I was still following. I was, of course, although sometimes a little further behind than he’d have liked. Apparently, being his mum also meant being expected to keep up with a three-year-old who had a lot more energy than I did.

As a mum who had her son at 40, keeping active matters to me. I’ve always enjoyed exercise, especially the gym, but walking outdoors with Cyrus was different. I wasn’t thinking about how many calories I’d burned or whether I’d managed a decent workout. I was concentrating on where he was going, what he was looking at and whether he was about to disappear behind another grassy bank.

It was also a chance to spend time together without the usual interruptions. At home, there’s always something that needs doing, and it’s easy to become distracted by work, washing or whatever else is demanding attention. Out walking, we could talk about the things he saw without having to worry too much about the time.

I’ve never been bothered about Cyrus getting dirty when we’re outdoors. Obviously, I’d rather he didn’t come home looking as though he’d been dragged through a hedge, but a few grass stains and muddy shoes are hardly a disaster. Children need opportunities to run around, climb things and find out what happens when they venture beyond the neatly maintained playground.

Research suggests that spending time outdoors can support children’s physical development, confidence and emotional wellbeing. Walking on uneven ground helps develop balance and coordination, while exploring unfamiliar surroundings gives them opportunities to make decisions and solve small problems. At three, Cyrus didn’t know any of this, of course. He was just enjoying himself, which seemed a good enough reason to be there.

There are so many activities available for young children that it’s easy to assume a good day out needs to involve tickets, scheduled sessions or somebody dressed as a cartoon character. Yet some of our most enjoyable afternoons have involved little more than a walk, a picnic and somewhere interesting to explore.

Northumberlandia is good for that because there’s enough variety to keep little ones interested without having to plan every minute. We found plenty to do simply by following the paths and seeing what caught Cyrus’s attention.

I’d certainly recommend Northumberlandia for families with toddlers, although it’s worth remembering that it’s a country park and landscape sculpture rather than a traditional playground. There are hills, uneven paths and some steeper sections, so comfortable shoes are a must. I’d also allow plenty of time, particularly if your child likes stopping to investigate everything along the way.

Some of the paths are easier to manage than others, and I’d think carefully before attempting the steeper routes with a pushchair. If you’re visiting with a younger toddler who might need carrying, it’s probably better to stick to a shorter walk rather than trying to cover the entire site.

We visited during the summer, so I made sure we had suncream, hats and plenty of water. Parts of the site are quite exposed, and there’s not much shade once you’re out on the higher slopes. On a windy day, I imagine it can feel considerably cooler up there, so it’s worth taking an extra layer.

The other thing I’d suggest is not being too ambitious. Four miles might sound manageable to an adult, but it’s a different matter when you’re walking with a three-year-old who wants to stop every few minutes. We weren’t trying to complete a particular route, and I think that made the afternoon much more enjoyable.

Northumberlandia is near Cramlington in Northumberland and is within easy travelling distance of Newcastle upon Tyne. Entry to the country park is free, making it an appealing option for families looking for an inexpensive day out.

The park covers around 46 acres and has approximately four miles of walking paths, along with woodland, open grassland and viewpoints across the surrounding countryside. There’s a visitor centre, café and toilet facilities, although opening hours and availability can vary depending on the time of year.

The park is generally accessible during daylight hours, but I’d recommend checking the latest visitor centre and café opening times, access information and any temporary restrictions before travelling.

If you’re going with toddlers, I’d also suggest packing snacks, drinks, wipes and a change of clothes, particularly if the weather has been wet. You probably won’t need everything, but it’s better than discovering halfway through your walk that somebody has fallen into a puddle and is now refusing to move.

Northumberlandia was designed by landscape architect and artist Charles Jencks and created as part of a project connected to the neighbouring Shotton surface coal mine. The sculpture was built using material from the mining operation, transforming enormous quantities of earth into a public landscape that people could walk across and explore.

The project involved The Banks Group and The Land Trust, bringing together the rather unlikely combination of coal mining, landscape design and public art. Instead of creating something to admire from behind a barrier, the result is a sculpture that visitors can experience by walking over it.

I find the whole idea fascinating. From the air, Northumberlandia is unmistakably a reclining woman, but when you’re standing on her slopes, it’s easy to forget you’re actually walking across a work of art. You’re more aware of the hills, the woodland and the views stretching out around you.

For Cyrus, none of that was particularly important. He was far more interested in finding another butterfly or seeing whether the diggers were still working. I don’t think he’d have been especially impressed if I’d attempted to explain the artistic significance of the landscape, and quite frankly, I don’t blame him.

By the time we finished exploring Northumberlandia, Cyrus had walked, climbed, investigated imaginary fairy houses and spent a considerable amount of time looking at machinery in the distance. He’d also enjoyed a café treat and acquired a sticker, which he regarded as a very satisfactory reward for his efforts.

I’d enjoyed myself too. We had a lovely afternoon together, got some exercise and spent several hours outdoors without needing to spend much money. More importantly, Cyrus had been able to explore at his own pace, and I’d had the chance to enjoy watching him discover things for himself.

Having a child at 40 has made me think more about the sort of experiences I want us to share as he grows up. I want to stay fit enough to run around with him, climb hills and join in rather than watch from the sidelines. I’m also conscious that these early years won’t last forever, however long some of the days might feel when you’re in the middle of them.

At three, Cyrus still wanted me to come and look at every butterfly, interesting stone and passing bird. He called for me when he discovered something and expected me to be just as excited as he was. I knew there would come a time when he’d be more interested in exploring with his friends than spending an afternoon walking with his mum.

For that afternoon, though, I was quite happy following him around Northumberlandia with a rucksack full of snacks, stopping every few minutes to see what he’d found. We might not have covered much ground, but we certainly found plenty to talk about on the way home.

Occasional stories, experiments, discoveries and questions from Saffron & Cyrus.