A festive family tradition: Our trip to Edinburgh at Christmas

There are cities you visit once, tick off your list, and move on from. And then there’s Edinburgh at Christmas – a place that insists on becoming part of your family tradition. It’s not just a trip; it’s a love affair.

When I was little, my mum and I would take the train up from Newcastle. She wore her wool coat. I shivered with excitement. The journey was a big deal back then. The train rattled. The windows steamed up. Just when I was starting to lose interest, the castle would appear like a storybook illustration. It was magical and it always made Christmas feel official.

Those trips became our own little ritual, one that smelled faintly of mince pies and train-station coffee. When H and I got together, there was no question: we’d carry it on. And now with Cyrus along for the ride, it’s not just a trip, it’s our festive family pilgrimage.

Road-tripping to the snow globe

This year we swapped the train for the car. It took three hours via Jedburgh. We made one caffeine stop. There was one family singalong to Christmas pop hits, but H refused to attempt Mariah Carey’s high note. We rolled into Edinburgh with the sort of giddy anticipation that only comes with December road trips.

We stayed at Hampton by Hilton, West End. The rate of £100 a night was a bargain. However, the additional £16 for parking felt less like a bargain and more like an Edinburgh reality check. The hotel itself was exactly what we needed. It was clean and warm. The only hiccup? Arriving at 1pm meant the room wasn’t ready yet. Cyrus coped by lying dramatically across the lobby sofa like a Victorian poet.

Lunch that saved the day

Luckily, Sofia’s Lounge – a Lebanese restaurant attached to the hotel – rescued the situation. The smell alone made us forget our irritation. Cyrus tucked into kafta meshwi (minced lamb kebabs). It was as if he’d never been fed before. Meanwhile, H and I devoured a grilled halloumi burger. We also had sweet potato fries that were borderline addictive. It was exactly the kind of easy, unfussy dining you want when you’re travelling with kids.

If you love trying new flavours on trips, I’ve got more family restaurant recommendations here.

Camera Obscura: science and silliness

We dumped our bags in our Queen Room. The sofa bed was already made up for Cyrus – points for that. We then headed straight to Camera Obscura and World of Illusions.

“Now, I know what you’re thinking, it’s a tourist trap. And yes, technically it is. But it’s also brilliant.”

The rooftop alone is worth the £63. Edinburgh Castle stands out. The city is laid out like a Christmas postcard. You can see the twinkling lights of Princes Street Gardens below. We got the kind of family photos that you just want to frame and display.

Inside, Cyrus went wild for the mirror maze, the shrinking room, and anything involving a spinning tunnel. H loved explaining the science. I loved the fact that for a good hour no one mentioned Roblox or Fortnite. Worth every penny.

Market magic: mulled wine and mittens

And then – the main event. The Edinburgh Christmas Market. There’s something about the first glimpse of those wooden chalets twinkling with fairy lights that just never gets old. Yes, it was heaving. Yes, I may have muttered about slow walkers. (And blamed perimenopause for my sudden lack of patience.) But the smell of cinnamon, mulled wine, roasting chestnuts made it impossible to be grumpy for long.

Cyrus’ face said it all: wide-eyed, pointing at every stall, clutching his hot chocolate like it was treasure. We sampled a bit of everything. We ate bratwurst, which was delicious. Then we enjoyed waffles, which were sticky. C also tried churros, and there was sugar everywhere. Finally, we had the kind of hot dogs that require gloves-half-on, ketchup-up-your-sleeve eating.

Why Edinburgh in December still matters

Every time we do this trip, I’m reminded why it’s become our anchor point for the festive season. It’s not just the market, or the castle, or the food, it’s the feeling. The shared family adventure. Even when the year has been a bit of a slog, we still get to stop. 2024 has been a year, but we get to soak it in and make memories together.

“Edinburgh in December is atmospheric, even if it’s a little bit chilly, but it is completely unforgettable.”

• Arrive later in the day – you’ll skip the room-wait frustration.
• Pre-book attractions – saves queues and guarantees a spot.
• Wear layers – you’ll thank me on that rooftop.
• Use the hotel parking – Edinburgh in December is not the time to gamble on street parking.
• Bring a power bank – this is a heavy-photo trip.

• Travel: 3-hour drive from Newcastle via Jedburgh.
• Stay: Hampton by Hilton, West End.
• Eat: Sofia’s Lounge, Lebanese street food.
• Do: Camera Obscura (£63.85 for family of three), Edinburgh Christmas Market (free).
• Don’t miss: The rooftop views, the hot dogs, and the moment you just stand still and take it all in.

Would you take your family on a Christmas city break? Tell me below – are you a mulled-wine-and-fairy-lights person, or do you prefer to hibernate until January?