Why Ash-e Doogh is my go-to soup for winter wellbeing

Yoghurt-based soup

I have a soft spot for Persian Ash-e Doogh, a yogurt-based soup that is both indulgent and healthy at the same time. I first stumbled across it on a chilly road trip through Azerbaijan, in the north of Iran. My memory is of a biting breeze outside, and the warm, fragrant smell of a traditional kitchen.

Persians believe in the balancing power of hot and cold foods. Not the literal temperature on your plate, but the effect they have on your body. Cold foods such as pomegranate, rice, cucumber, lentils slow digestion and, in my experience, can leave you feeling sluggish. Hot foods such as lamb, chicken, walnuts, speed things up, giving you alertness and energy to tackle whatever life throws at you. And because life rarely offers just one side of the spectrum, Persians combine hot and cold in the same dish. Genius, really.

Warm and functional

Fast forward to England, winter creeping in, and nothing feels more comforting than a steaming bowl of Ash-e Doogh. This yogurt-based soup with rice, fresh herbs, chickpeas, and topped with sautéed onion, garlic, and mint, has become my winter staple. The trick is in the balance: yogurt, onion, garlic, and rice are “cold” foods, which is why the chickpeas, herbs, and mint are crucial, they keep the body warm and functional.

Eating Ash-e Doogh always transports me back to Iran, six weeks pregnant with my son Cyrus, battling severe morning sickness but still able to eat bowl after bowl of this soup. It’s a memory wrapped in comfort, warmth, and family. Yogurt is a staple in Persian life, much like rice.

Ash-e Doogh Recipe

Ingredients

• Butter
• Onion, finely chopped
• Turmeric
• Chickpeas
• Rice
• Vegetables of your choice
• Egg yolk
• Yogurt
• Flour
• Garlic
• Fresh mint
• Oil

Method

• Melt butter in a pan and sauté onions until golden.
• Add turmeric, stir, and cook another 3–5 minutes on medium heat. Set aside to cool.
• In a large soup pan, place chickpeas and add 6–8 cups water. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and cook until tender.
• Add rice, cook 10–15 minutes, adding water if needed.
• Add vegetables, stir well, and cook for 20 minutes.
• In a small bowl, whisk egg yolk, 2 tbsp yogurt, and 1–2 tbsp flour. Combine with remaining yogurt, then add to the soup. Cook on low for 30–40 minutes. Season to taste.
• For the topping: heat oil, sauté onion until golden, add garlic and mint, cook 2–3 minutes.
• Serve soup in bowls, garnished with the fried onion mixture.

There’s something undeniably nurturing about stirring a pot of Ash-e Doogh on a cold day, and it’s one of those recipes that reminds me that taking care of yourself doesn’t have to be complicated.